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One learned that the south Indian spice mix podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
225g paneer, cubed into two-centimeter cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and grated
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
Forty milliliters mild oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.